โFor liquor stores, whiskey bars, restaurants โ having a private barrel label is basically their way of saying โThis is how we like our whiskey.โโ Tom Fischer, the founder of BourbonBlog and a frequent judge at many spirits and cocktail competitions, told me over the phone after we got back from Kentucky. โSo it allows them to put that bottle on a shelf and say, you know, โThis is something we went to Kentucky and we picked up. This is how we like our whiskey, but it may not always be how you like it.โโ
For the half dozen guys who flew in from Seattle to pick out a barrel for Dukeโs Chowder House, a personal barrel straight from Kentucky carried even more weight. As a typical morning tour group followed a microphoned guide out of a rick house at Woodford Reserve, a smaller group of men, coffees in hand, stood excited, huddled around Chris Morris, Master Distiller, to get a pep talk while everyone was still sober. They followed Morris, bespeckled and in a tan Woodford Reserve quarter zip that would look as much at home on a horse track as Woodfordโs property in Versailles, into the warehouse.
The rick house was a relatively new, state-of-the-art building with temperature controls. In the winter, when temperatures can drop so low that the aging process slows to a halt, hot water pipes running throughout the building raise the temperature, then cut off to let the temperature drop once more. This repeats throughout the winter. These fluctuations cycle the bourbon in and out of the barrelโs wood faster, adding to the batchโs flavor as well as the electricity bill. But Woodford has penned itself as a premium, luxury bourbon label from its first release in 1996, and these costs show up in the liquor store checkout line.
After a brief lesson โ a little homework before the tasting โ the Dukeโs team used a whiskey key to take samples from three barrels of Woodford Reserve Double Oaked that Morris had set aside. This is par for the course: After finally reaching the top of a waiting list, restaurants and liquor stores interested in selecting their own single barrel of whiskey will typically call in and give the master distiller an idea of what they are looking for โ just broad strokes of flavor โ and the master distiller will try to select barrels that fit this preference. He wants to give them something theyโd be willing to buy around 216 bottles of, to let them bring home their own taste to serve exclusively at their restaurant.
โFive or six years ago โ I think it was five or six years ago โ people hardly knew what personal barrels wereโ, Fischer said, thinking back to his own experiences picking barrels. โSo this really gives you a nice idea of how the industry has grown in five or six years and how the distilleries are using this as an opportunity to market themselves and offer a very personal experience and a very personalized product to consumers.โ